Fly #4 in the Series

So far we have tied a series of streamer style flys, imitating aquatic life that resides below the surface.  Today’s fly, the Bivisible, is a dry fly pattern, fished on the surface, the pinnacle of fly fishing dreams, a big trout sipping your fly and then dancing the battle to your net.

Tying the Bivisible

This fly consists of a hook, thread and two colors of hackle feathers.  A short list, a simple fly, as long as you take a little care.  Color variations are easy to accomplish with this fly, but keep the white, or at least the lightest feather color at the eye of the hook.

Difficulty Level: 2 out of 5.  According to the Fly Tying Bible this is a 4 out 5 for tying difficulty.  That rating is a little baffling.  If you get the hang of working the hackle pliers, you can crank these flys out in under 5 minutes each.

Materials:

• dry fly hooks, #8 to #12.  if you go to big, the trout ignore it.  Too small and it’s very hard to get the second color of hackle feather onto the shaft.
• black and white or brown and white hackle feathers as well a hackle tip matching the darker feather
• black thread

After you pinch off all the hook barbs, place the hook in the vice.  Starting just behind the eye, build up wraps of black thread all the way down the shank to opposite the hook point.  Trim off and wrap in the hackle feather tip for the tail.

Select a dark hackle feather with the fibre length about twice that of the hook gap.  Catch it in at the tail of the hook.  Wind your tying thread 2/3 of the way back up the shaft towards the eye.  Use your hackle pliers and wind the hackle to the thread in tight turns.

At the thread, tie off the dark hackle and catch in the butt of the light hackle feather.  Wind your tying thread to the eye.  Wrap the hackle using your pliers to the eye and use the tying thread to catch in the end of the light hackle feather.

Build up a head with more turns.  Cast off and add head cement.

In the flybox, you can see a few color variations.  Black main feather with tan color hackle feather.  Black with white, and tan with white.  In the bright light of a summer day, the black / tan will show much more contrast than the pictures suggest.

It’s just about mid-April, which means less than a month away from opening day of fishing season in Southern Saskatchewan.  For me, early season means chasing hungry pike in the shallows.  Outdoor Canada recently had an article on the topic.  You read their 3 Unbeatable Rigs for Catching Huge Early Season Northern Pike.

i am especially drawn to the third heading in the article, the Fly Fishing Formula.  I have a few streamers that are well liked by pike.  But, I have my own summer fishing plan that was inspired by a different Outdoor Canada article so before I go into my fly box and tie on some of the big streamers, I first have to work the water with some of the Seven Flies that I have tied for this season.  Maybe a variation of the Clouser Deep Minnow will work for early season pike.  In my article, I tied all the flies with blue and white bucktail.  Now I am going to go back and tie some other colour combinations, and add some length, to try and match the look of the whitefish spoons and cisco baits used by many anglers.  Combinations of white, silver, and gold might look very whitefishy.  Some mixed green colors, with yellow, white, and a flash of red can pass as perch soon to be a meal.

More to follow, as i tie some patterns, and more in a month as they hit the water.

Fly #3 in the Series

This fly is a deep running minnow imitation.  First time I fished a Clouser Deep Minnow was in a sheltered bay on Lake Diefenbaker, near Saskatchewan Landing.  It turned out to be a popular fly with the Goldeyes in the area.  I had good success with it a few years later at Besnard Lake, casting it past a Walleye pool then letting it swing down into the pool and pulling it through.  The barbel eyes make it sink quickly and the upturned hook help avoid bottom snags.

Tying the Clouser Deep Minnow

This is a very straight forward fly to tie.  If you can wind thread around a hook shank, you can tie this fly.  For variation, just substitute colors of bucktail to produce different colored minnow patterns.  Even tri-colored versions work, especially a green, blue, white combination.  Because there are two bunches of material used, one for the body/tail and one for the wing, you can even add a little bit of red to the body, such as red and blue, and then white and blue for the wing.

Difficulty Level: 1 out of 5.  According to the Fly Tying Bible this is a 3 out 5 for tying difficulty.  Once you figure out how to attach the dumbbell eyes, the rest of the fly is really easy.

Materials:

• dry fly hooks, from #8 to #4 XL streamer hooks
• blue and white bucktail
• white thread
• dumbbell eyes

Place the hook in the vice.  Starting just behind the eye, build up wraps of white thread approximately 1/4 down the shank.

Attach the dumbbell eyes to the top of the shank using figure 8 turns of thread.  Leave some space between the eyes and the hook eye.  You will use this space to attach the wing material.  Use enough turns to keep the eyes firmly in place.  Cut small bunches of blue bucktail and white bucktail and place them together.  The bucktail should be about 2 times the hook shaft length, or longer. Trim the end to make it even and place on the shaft behind the dumbbell eyes.  Secure in place by winding the thread in wide spaced turns to the hook bend and back, which will create a criss-crossed pattern of white thread.

Remove the hook from the vice, flip it over and re-insert into the vice. This places the heavy eyes at the bottom of the hook and keep the hook bend facing up when fishing to minimize bottom snags.

Gather a mixed bunch of white and blue bucktail, longer than the body/tail bunches, about 2-1/2 to 3 times the hook shaft length.  Catch them in between the hook eye and the dumbbell eyes.  Use enough wraps of thread to build up a head then move the thread behind the dumbbell eye and add another 8 to 10 wraps of thread.  Whip finish the thread here and add head cement to the wraps in front of and behind the dumbbells.

If your dumbbell eyes did not come pre-painted, you can choose to paint them or leave them.  If you wish to paint them, to add more realism, you can use a dab of whiteout, let it dry, then use a black sharpie permanent marker.  Small bottles of craft paint work as well, with a very small brush.  Just be careful you only pain the eyes. You can paint them before you tie them to a fly, but because they are small items, it can be difficult.

The Fly Box

With Wooley Buggers, Brown and White Bucktails (Mickey Finn), and Clouser Minnows.  These are all considered sub-surface patterns, fished as wet fly.  They are also fairly large fly patterns.  They are used to go down to where the fish are, feeding in the water column or the at bottom.  The next fly we will tie will be a dry fly, the Bivisible.

I recently read an article in Outdoor Canada Magazine (my second favorite outdoor magazine) titled 7 Easy to Tie Flies That Will Catch Fish Anywhere in Canada. I live “Anywhere in Canada” and I love to fly fish so I have decided that it is my mission this summer to try all these flies and give you a report on how well they work and how easy to tie they are. One of the points the author makes is “these flies will work just fine if they’re a little sloppy”. Coincidentally that’s exactly how I tie most of my flies. I think “sloppy” also makes them look “buggy”, and, in some cases, injured.

So, the 7 flies are (in order of the images below the list):

• BEAD-HEAD WOOLLY BUGGER
• BROWN & WHITE BUCKTAIL
• CLOUSER DEEP MINNOW
• BIVISIBLE
• HARE’S EAR FLYMPH
• X-CADDIS
• EGG FLY

I have tied and fished flies similar to all these at some point, except maybe the BiVisible.  Good news, I can remember catching fish on all of them, from walleye and goldeneye on the Clouser Minnow to rainbow trout on the caddis.  The wooley bugger has been a favorite, catching a wide variety of species including pike, walleye, and rainbow trout.  The bucktail has work especially well on perch.  I haven’t used an egg fly pattern in Canada, but I have caught steelhead on the Salmon river in Idaho with an orange/red version.  Hare’s ear nymphs have caught rainbow trout and perch.

By the end of summer, I will also add a few of my favorites to the list, hopefully arriving at a respectable 10 flies that are easy to tie, easy to fish, and catch fish.  Expect that list to include the Super Jumbo Mosquito.

Summer Fishing Plan

My plan for the summer is fill a new fly box with only these flies and fish them as often as I can.  Translation: I now have another reason to go fishing.  Whenever I convert my gear fishing fishing buddies over the art of fly fishing, I will arm them with a few of these flies and keep track of how well they do.  Well, 2 months until fishing season opens, I’d better get tying some flies.

Fly fishing for trout is a roller coaster experience.  When you find the right time and the right tackle, it’s pure adrenaline.  Acrobatic splashes, long runs, and a beautiful fish on the end of the line.  When the bite is off, the bite is off.  Trout tend to be very finicky, so if you find something that works, stick to it.  I have found the combination that has worked wonders for the past two weeks.

While fly fishing my favorite trout pond, I try to experiment and see what happens with a different pattern of fly, fished on the bottom, pulled just below the surface, fast and slow, drifting, changing colors and sizes of the same or different flies, and changing location of my casts.  While the old adage, “match the hatch” is certainly true, I’ve stumbled across a magic combination for catching trout at sunset in the middle of August.  The key to the whole matter may be the time of day, but here’s what’s worked for me.

I started fly fishing that evening at about 7:00 pm, casting and switching flies frequently, hoping to catch a few nice rainbows before it got dark.  There was a lot of action near the surface, but little for bugs on the top of the water.  My guess was they were feeding just below the surface.  So I changed tactics, tied on a dry and went for a fast retrieve just below.  The result, a few nibbles, even a couple of little ‘bows too small to really count as a fish.  So I changed flies, larger and smaller.  Retrieved faster and slower and deeper and left and right, and the same results, occasional nibbles.  The sun was quickly dropping behind the hill over my right shoulder, and the top water action was starting to die down.  Disappointed, I gathered in my line and began the short walk from the far end of the pond to where I had parked my truck.

It was 8:30 now and would soon be getting difficult to see.  In the 2 or 3 minutes it took to walk the length of the pond, the action suddenly increased, and the rises appeared larger than before!  I paused!  I thought! I took my rod back out of the case and cast my fly about 30 feet out.  Fish on!  A quick release and another cast.  Fish on!  That was two fish (and these could legitimately be called fish) in 1-1/2 minutes when I had caught next to nothing in the past 1-1/2 hours.  So I continued casting and catching, as the sun disappeared and I could no longer see my line, but I kept catching trout, and they seemed to be increasing with size as it got darker.  So I thought to myself, I’m staying here until I tangle or I lose my fly.  By the time I finally did tangle, it was 9:45 pm and the stars were shining bright.  I was the last to leave the pond that night.  Most others had left as the sun was setting and missed all the real activity.

Not sure if this was a one time phenomenon, I was determined to test my theory the next night as well, as all good scientists will do.  An experiment which can be replicated has no validity.  Therefore, in the interests of science (trout fishing research), I was duty bound to return, Tuesday, Thursday, the following Monday, Tuesday and again Thursday.  Each night, the results were the same.  A few nibbles, a few trout landed, then just after sunset, success every second or third cast.  My belief is that the trout were not so much going after a particular pattern of fly but more on the movement of the fly.  The first three nights I tried not to vary the experiment too much, sticking with a pheasant tail nymph each night and using a rapid retrieve just below the surface.  Most of the hits came within the first couple of pulls on the line, some the instant the fly hit the water.  I did move around the pond, trying shallow and deeper waters, close to and directly away from shore.  It didn’t seem to matter, the bite was on everywhere!

This past Monday I decided to try a different pond, one I know holds larger fish.  The results were very similar.  These last two days I varied the pattern, switching from the pheasant tail nymph to a zug bug to an imitation shrimp.  All three patterns about equal in size but varying in color.  It didn’t seem to matter.  All flies were equally successful.  I’ll be returning tomorrow night, well prepared, and experimenting again with a few different fly patterns.

Here’s my advice for fly fishing when the light is starting to diminish.  First of all, bring a small flash light.  The light will come in handy when you snag your cast, when you tangle your line, when you want to tie on a different fly, and especially when releasing a fish which has taken the fly deep in it’s mouth.  As always, it’s easier to release the fish with a barbless hook, or with the hook pinched down.  Shorten up your line.  You won’t need a lot of line, the fish are as active 10 feet off shore as they are 50 feet off shore.  A shorter line leaves less chance of tangling in the dark.  A side benefit of casting in the dark is you really learn to cast by feel and get into the rhythm of the cast.  The only senses you have are touch, taste, sound, and smell, and three of those don’t help much.

Today I attempted to fish at the North American mosquito testing grounds. I pulled up and parked near one of my favorite fishing spots and opened the door to get out. Within 2 seconds I had two mosquitoes on my ear. Like a fight in a high school parking lot, it was on! Out came the Muskol. I was determined to not let a pesky little insect prevent me from casting my fly rod and hooking some trout, maybe that big brown I’ve seen feeding on the surface nearby. In fact, mosquitoes be damned, I will use them to my advantage.

I defiantly walked to the waters edge and tied on my “Jumbo Mosquito” pattern and started casting, through a cloud of mosquitoes, so it seemed. Every piece of exposed skin was covered, twice, with bug repellant, but they were all over me. I set my rod down and started applying bug repellant directly onto my clothes. I read the label, “Apply sparingly, re-apply as needed, lasts up to 6 hours”. Try 6 minutes and only when applied in thick layers. It was better to be on the move. With myself and my dog constantly moving and casting, I thought I could move away from the swarm, only to realize I was moving into the next swarm. Walking through the grass only bounced more mosquitoes into the air.

I was convinced I was in a battle with Muskol resistant mosquitoes, or these are the mosquitoes from the bad side of town and they treat Muskol like candy or a cheap drug. The more I put on, the more I was swatting at mosquitoes landing on my neck, arms, legs. Finally after an hour and a half, and no fish, I packed it in and headed home. I saw the big brown trout surface again. I’ll be back for him, with uber strength bug repellant. Perhaps a double layer of Muskol Extra Heavy Duty and Deeper Than Deep Woods Off.

This round to the mosquitoes. Next round to man!